Confessions of a Train Fanatic

My Unforgettable Ride Aboard "The Canadian"

Let me start with a confession: I am crazy about trains. I’m not talking about a mild appreciation or nostalgic fondness. We are talking full-blown, heart-racing, bell-clanging, horn-blasting adoration. The blast of a train horn, the rhythmic clickety-clack of wheels on rails, and—don’t even get me started—the primal roar of a steam engine sends me into such a frenzy of joy that, frankly, some might consider it grounds for clinical concern.

The romance of train travel is still powerful – no other transportation can replicate that slow ever changing landscape and the steady rhythm of the journey unfolding – bliss.

My obsession runs deep. I once made a 15-hour pilgrimage just to visit the California State Railroad Museum in Sacramento. Not only did I revel in every display, I bought a CD of train sounds. That CD has become my stress balm and effective deterrent to 2 a.m. party-happy neighbours. Nothing says “quiet down” quite like a freight train horn played at full blast.

But nothing compares to my most recent rail adventure: a bucket-list journey aboard The Canadian from Winnipeg to Vancouver. My sister and I had dreamed of this for years, and we finally made it happen. Three nights and two gloriously scenic days aboard one of the world’s most iconic long-distance trains from Toronto to Vancouver – we joined in Winnipeg with rolling plains, big skies, then snow -capped Rocky Mountains, wild goats, deer or was that a moose?  All with a front row seat to this breath-taking scenery with the comfort and charm of a bygone era. Think vintage retro on steroids.

Let me explain, this train has been in operation for 70 years.  Originally part of the Canadian Pacific Railway with VIA Rail taking over in 1978, so the fit out, fixtures like seats, tables, light fittings and décor look like something you would see in any Modern Art Museum, but you are living the experience. 

Winnipeg Train Station

Booking and Boarding

A word of advice. This journey is extremely popular. When we reserved our tickets months ahead, all private cabins were already gone. Instead, we scored two lower sleeper berths, which turned out to be a brilliant choice.

Comfortable beds, curtained for privacy, with access to spotless showers and a conveniently located toilet, they offered everything we needed. Bed linen, towels, pillows and soap at night and the bed converts into daytime seats. We left our beds during the day with the blessing of the passenger above as there are other non-crowded options for viewing the landscape – with tea and coffee available and tables for games.

Here’s my tip. Opt for the lower berth rather than the upper. The upper has no window and climbing up a narrow ladder in the middle of the night may not suit. For couples, pay the supplement two lower berths side by side make for the perfect setup.

Chef Justin Sutherland Life Onboard

Now let’s talk food, because it was exceptional. Working from a tiny kitchen equipped with nothing more than a grill plate and a single oven, the kitchen team pulled off culinary magic. From hearty breakfasts to beautifully plated dinners, each meal was served in the elegant dining car, complete with white tablecloth and linen napkins, where we shared stories and laughter with fellow travelers like Tracey and Isla Sturgeon from Scotland and Bill and Roger Croteau from Ontario, celebrating a father’s birthday.

I’m still salivating over the memories of the prime Alberta beef cooked perfectly by chef Justin Sutherland. He has 18 years’ experience on board starting out as a porter and moving to the kitchen. He

Stephane Audette senior service attendant

kindly gave me his top cooking tips in that busy, small kitchen. (See below for his beef cooking tips)

The breakfasts were perfectly cooked – omelette or buttermilk pancakes with Canadian maple syrup, home-made hash browns and later in the day – pristine meat or Canadian salmon with incredibly cooked vegetables and pristine salads.

Far beyond what you would expect on such a rolling small kitchen and when serving so many people.

They accommodate dietary requests, but when pressed by me for the most difficult dietary request he has had over the years –Sutherland \warmly smiles and diplomatically says “ we had a lady who insisted that all her meals be prepared using only freshly ground rock salt….and we did it!” with a huge smile.  

The warmth of the Canadian passengers and crew made the experience even richer. Every conversation and every toast across the table reminded us how travel can connect people in unexpected and lovely ways.

The Scenery? Spellbinding.

Picture this: coffee in hand, perched in the dome car, watching golden prairie fields stretch endlessly to the horizon. Scattered grain elevators stand like sentinels of a different time. In the distance a salt mine and fields punctuated with small tent structures which are the “working hives” not for honey collection, but to enhance pollination in this seriously agricultural landscape.

Then, as the train passes through Saskatchewan the land undulates more noticeably. Moose, deer, red foxes can be seen near the tracks and small towns complete with their Tim Horton coffee shops near the tracks and guys in pick up trucks clustering around chatting over coffee outside.

A glimpse into life and community.

 Miles roll by, the landscape transforms again, trees are taller, deep green forests, sparkling rivers run faster. The towering Rockies are the most dramatic portion of the journey and the journey through Jasper National Park is a visual feast with snow-dusted peaks, tranquil lakes, the occasional glimpse of wildlife.

I got up at 4 am to see the early morning sunrise in Hinton, Alberta then Brule and along the Athabasca river basin before arriving in Jasper. Unforgettable.

From Jasper the train hugs the Fraser River and we plunge into narrow canyons and scaling mountain passes.

From the Skyline Car– you have a lounge and activity area with tables and coffee station and an upper area with a glass dome. You can socialize and view the scenery - snowcapped mountains, glacial lakes, waterfalls – the occasional black bear or more likely the mountain goat. Between Jasper and Kamloops the sheer scale of Canada’s wilderness becomes awe-inspiring. From Kamloops to Vancouver the landscape softens and it’s vineyards and orchards – an important food bowl for the neighbouring cities.

The pace of the train is perfect.

Stairs to the observation deck.

It’s leisurely enough to appreciate the grandeur, but never tedious. The experience feels like a cinematic immersion into Canada's wild heart, seen through the window of a warm, moving sanctuary. The Canadian is epic scenery, warm camaraderie, and the gentle rhythm of a bygone era with by-the-way delicious beef.

Advice for Fellow Train Buffs

1. Book early. Cabins sell out quickly, sometimes months in advance.

2. Consider shoulder seasons. Late autumn or winter brings fewer crowds and the drama of snow-covered scenery, which is spectacular from the comfort of your heated train carriage.

3. Get the lower berth. It offers better views, easier access, and you avoid awkward climbs.

4. Be open. Talk to your dining companions. Every journey is richer with good stories.

5. Pack thoughtfully. Bring layers, a good book, and something to record the memories, like a camera or journal. Thankfully Wifi is not available 24/7 and best served at stops enroute and due to its glorious age power outlets are less important – so just be flexible.

One carry-on bag and one checked into luggage carriage – keep your carry-on to be small. Just make it easy wear the same clothes for your trip. It will go unnoticed; the scenery is the attention-grabber.

For help with booking, talk to the team at Adventure World they can help you secure the best options. discover@adventureworld.co.nz 

Ph 0800 238 368

Fun Facts

• Elevation: The train climbs to 1,646 m (5,400 ft) at Yellowhead Pass in the Rockies. From Toronto to Vancouver over 4,466 km – four nights and four days on board.

• Cabins: Offers everything from reclining seats to private bedrooms with showers. Prestige class has hotel-like suites.

• Observation Cars: Dome cars give panoramic views of lakes, prairies, and mountains—rare worldwide.

• Dining: Full-service meals with Canadian cuisine, often featuring regional specialties (salmon, Alberta beef, etc.).

• Recognition: Consistently ranked among the world’s great train journeys (National Geographic, Lonely Planet ).Named one of the best train trips in the world by Condé Nast Traveller's Reader's Choice Awards 2024,

• Cultural Heritage: A designated part of Canada’s “Signature Experience Collection” for tourism.

Beef Cooking Tip

Thank you chef Justin Sutherland this recipe is based on a large piece of prime rib but the principle is the same when that internal temperature is reached – use that as your guide

Aged room temperature beef smear with mustard and add herbs salt and pepper.

Give it a good sear in a very hot oven to get a nice crust 260degC  for 10 -15 minutes and then lower the temperature to 120degC  for 2 1/2 to 3 hours until the internal temperature reaches 49-52degC for rare beef. Remove from oven.

Put tinfoil on the top of it and let it rest for another three hours ideally and it’s time to serve it put it in a 200degC  oven for another 10 minutes to heat it back up and you’ll be ready to go!

My preference for beef is around 57degC but that means a little less red.

Helpful Tip for Access to Train

The Fairmont hotel at the Vancouver airport is a great option before or after your train trip.  Not only are the rooms super comfortable you can see the planes arriving and landing, but without the noise.  Also, their dining options are super good – their mushroom soup is famous, the crab soup richly flavoured  and their seafood platter is stunning.

You are welcome to just go into the bar area if you have a few hours for your connection and order some drinks and food.

Their spa facilities are available for a day pass if you are just spending time waiting for your flight and if you are booked into your room you can join their loyalty programme and for no charge sports shoes and sports gear will be in your room to use and leave behind.

Such thoughtful details make this a very attractive option.